After our visit to Northern Italy we went to Crete for two weeks to enjoy island life. Although Crete is a part of Greece, many locals told us they have unique dialects, cultures, and customs. The archeological record spans back ~10,000 years and their civilization was advanced for the times. There are also many amazing beaches and hikes to enjoy. We focused on the north and west sides of the island, and will have to go back to explore the east and southern sides.
Heraklion – An Introduction to Cretan Culture and Wine
Heraklion is the largest town in Crete and was the starting point for our adventures. We decided to stay about 10 minutes away from Heraklion at a winery called Scalarea Estates. The wine was great and their cork remover collection was interesting.
We visited the Heraklion Archaeological Museum that has an interesting collection of artifacts from the ancient Minoan Civilization (3500 BCE – 1100 BCE). Note: BC = Before Christ, BCE = Before Common Era; a secular alternative. The figure on the left is from 6500-5900 BCE. We saw huge clay vessels for storing food, and figurines for rituals. They used clay tablets to track items including: taxes, inventory, and people (the original tracking app!) Pictured below on the right are tablets that count chariots with and without wheels. Normally the tablets were soft clay that could be wiped clean after each use but these were preserved when an accidental fire occurred and acted like a kiln to preserved them.
We also went to the Knossos Palace that was built by the Minoans between 1900 BCE – 1450 BCE. We were a bit disappointed as a British archeologist tried to “restore” some of the palace in the early 1900s as he guessed how it should look. In our opinion it made it harder to picture how people actually lived there.
Spinalonga Island
We took a day trip and drove about an hour east of Heraklion to visit Spinalonga Island. It has a long history, first as a Venetian fort, then it was converted to an isolated leper colony in the early 1900s. When the cure for leprosy was found in the 1950s it was shut down and abandoned. The historical novel The Island, written by Victoria Hislop, created new interest in the island. It is easy to reach with a 10 minute boat ride to explore it. We found it fascinating.
Driving on Crete
We rented a car while on the island so we could explore. Immediately we noticed that people drive straddling the white side line so that others can pass. Locals say this is against the law but everyone does it. They also are quick to honk at you. And the stop lights seem to be very dim; maybe 15 watts?! Lines on the roads, especially in the larger towns, are faded and make lane separation confusing. Sometimes we weren’t sure if we were in a turn lane or go straight lane. Landslides in the mountains near the remote beaches were also a factor and we had to be very careful driving at night. Driving was an adventure!
Western Crete – Beach Time!
After a bit of cultural background on the island we headed west to explore Crete’s beaches.
We stayed in Moni Chrisoskalitissis close to Elafonissi Beach, which is famous for its pink sand and clear, shallow water (first picture). We also visited nearby Kedrodasos Beach as it is quieter and more swimmable which we preferred.
We discovered some beautiful local beaches in Moni Chrisoskalitissis; Voulolimni and White Lake Beach. At times we were the only ones there!
Our next stop was Falasarna Beach, a long sandy stretch popular with tourists and locals. A storm passed through that made the ocean a bit rough, so we just wandered the beach and enjoyed the stunning views. Our hotel (that we found with a lot of research) had a deck with incredible sunset views.
We took a sailboat trip to Gramvousa Island and Balos Lagoon. Gramvousa Island has an old Venetian fort that is fun to explore. We also enjoyed swimming at Balos Lagoon in warm, turquois water.
Chania – Small Town, Great Vibes
Our week in Chania was relaxing and fun. Chania was a Venetian port and the historic core still has a lot of charm. We enjoyed exploring the waterfront and back alleyways.
We took a cooking class with a woman who’s family has lived on Crete for generations. We made what was called a “thief’s dinner.” Apparently during WWII, during the German occupation on Crete, the resistance had to steal food from the Germans and make a meal with what they stole. Our food was sourced from the farm where the class was held (not stolen) and was super yummy. We learned the secret ingredient to tzatziki; red wine vinegar and no dill!
Our final adventure was a hike down Samaria Gorge. It starts in the middle of the island and ends at a very remote beach. After the hike we had to take a ferry and then a bus to get back to our car. It was a fantastic hike.
The Travel Continues
Crete was a fun stop and at some point we want to go back to see the other half of the island. However, we only had one more day on our 90 day Schengen visa so we absolutely had to move on. (Overstaying a visa is a very serious matter with strict penalties of $$ and/or years of being prohibited from re-entry.)
Our next stop was Nepal. We flew through Doha, Qatar and spent the night. We stayed in a 5 star hotel for around $40 through a partnership arrangement with Qatar Airlines. We got an amazing night’s sleep on a super comfortable bed, vs. flying straight from Crete to Nepal overnight in an airplane seat! We were able to wander the Souq Waqif (central market) and had an amazing time people watching; women in full burqas and men in white robes with head turbans. Most amazing were the outdoor AC units and air conditioned vents in the walkways to keep the area cool; literally cooling the outdoors! Next time we transit through Doha we need to stay longer. It was very interesting.
Doha was a quick stop. Now off to Nepal!!